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Wonderful visit to Hildene in Manchester, VT

by Kerstin Rao, artist and owner of Vivid Cottage (subscribe for more stories!)


How lucky was I to be the Guest Artist at the Gift Shop at Hildene, the Lincoln Family Home?

Kerstin Rao standing with her Vivid Cottage stationery products at Hildene in Vermont
Kerstin Rao, guest artist at the Hildene Gift Shop

A quick story about the name - it is pronounced ‘Hill-DEEN.’ It comes from two old English words - hil (hill) and dene (valley and stream.) It’s located by Mount Equinox in Manchester, Vermont.


Set inside the Visitor Center in the old Carriage House, the Gift Shop is beautifully curated with Vermont-and-East-Coast based artisan stationery, home goods, and children’s gifts.


I set up my table with large floral illustration art prints, greeting cards, notepads, and tea towels. I enjoyed meeting fellow artists (some came from 90 minutes away to say hello!), museum staff and volunteers, and the steady stream of enthusiastic visitors.


Floral greeting cards on display at Hildene's gift shop
Vivid Cottage cards on display in the Hildene Gift Shop

The day before, I spent four hours exploring the fascinating, historic grounds. Hildene was built by Robert, son, and the only child who lived to maturity, of Abraham and Mary Todd Lincoln. It became the summer home of Robert and his wife, Mary, in the early 1900s. Robert was president of the Pullman Company, and there is a fascinating Pullman car to see on the grounds.


Front view of mansion at Hildene the Lincoln Family Home. A smaller square is set into the ground with bricks to show the small size of Abraham Lincoln's log cabin by comparison.
You can see a square showing the size of President Abraham Lincoln's log cabin in front of Hildene, built by Lincoln's son Robert in the early 1900s.

In 1975, Hildene was almost torn down and sold to developers. It was rescued from destruction by the community and established as a non-profit in 1978.


During my visit, it was the tail end of peony season. I was eager to see the formal gardens, designed by Jessie Lincoln, great-granddaughter of President Abraham Lincoln, as a gift for her mother Mary in 1908.


A view of the formal gardens at Hildene, which are in the partere style - divided into four geometric areas.
View from the second-floor window to Hildene's formal gardens, over 100 years old.

Did you know there are two peonies unique to the site, cultivated over 100 years ago? The ‘Hildene’ and the ‘Jessie Lincoln’ are recognized by the American Peony Society. I may have to return to draw them next year…


Rear view of the Hildene mansion with pink peonies in the foreground.
The last of the peonies this year at Hildene.

The self-guided tour of the family home begins with a special introduction by a docent. To my delight, the Aeolian organ plays as tour groups enter. It's the oldest residential pipe organ in America still in its originally-installed site. The bellows are built inside the front porch columns -- a little architectural fun fact for you!


The Aeolian organ at Hildene, with shelves of boxed organ music.
The Aeolian Organ at Hildene

I found every room fascinating, imagining life in the early 1900s. I was delighted to learn about Lincoln’s great-granddaughter Peggy Beckwith, the last ancestor to live at Hildene until 1975. She earned her pilot’s license in 1931, ran the Hildene farm, and was an artist (hello!)


A corner of the display about Peggy Beckwith showing her artist's easel and art tools.
Peggy Beckwith's creative tools

There are trams to bring you to the Dairy Farm and the Hildene Farm. It’s worth it even if you just ride and see the scope of the property.


I made sure to hop off the tram at the Pullman car. I’ve never seen one in person, only in films. I felt every bit as thrilled and curious as I did in the mansion.


I learned that this particular car was owned by President McKinley during the last 12 years of his life. It was also used by President Roosevelt during his campaign tour around the country. I could not resist asking a fellow visitor to take a shot of me pretending to give a speech from the back.

The lavish interior of the 1903 Pullman car at Hildene, showing shiny mahogany wood, upholstered seating, and old electric lights.
The lavish interior of the Pullman car

I was impressed that the docents and the educational markers discussed not just the wealthy, but also the conditions the Pullman porters endured with the Many Voices exhibit. It’s only by facing history with honesty that we can build a more just future.

Black and white photos of African Americans who served as Pullman Porters. Text reads: I had not been in the service very long when I learned that the position of porter was not the 'easy job' that it is generally thought to be, but, on the whole, was one that called for the endurance of many real hardships. Long hours, low pay, harsh, and in some instances, inhuman treatment, are the three ruling aspects of the position so far as the porter is concerned. - C.F. Anderson, excerpt from Freemen Yet Slaves Under Abe Lincoln's Son or Service and Wages of Pullman Porters
The Hildene site explained the challenging conditions faced by the Pullman Porters

Historic black and white photo of President Roosevelt in 1907 speaking from the back of the Pullman car on his campaign trail.
Roosevelt speaking from the back of the Pullman car in 1907 Source: Library of Congress
Kerstin Rao with one finger up pretending to give a speech from the back of the Pullman car.
I'm never one to miss a chance for a Historic Re-Enactment

In case you are planning a visit to Manchester, I thought I’d also recommend a few stops:


Northshire Bookstore. Founded in 1976 and boasting 10,000 square feet of wonderfully curated books, gifts, and stationery, this is a must-see.


Photo of Kerstin Rao under an ornamental archway of books and the words Northshire Bookstore.
Being at Northshire Bookstore felt like home

Southern Vermont Arts Center. One of Hildene’s docents recommended I get dinner at Curate Café, located at the SVAC. They were closed for a wedding (lucky guests!) so I wandered the current exhibit, very impressed by the professional presentation, the thought-provoking pieces, and their clear devotion to providing a top-notch place for art.


Photo of a gabled entrance to the Southern Vermont Arts Center.
Southern Vermont Arts Center

Bronwyn-on-Battenkill. German restaurant, chef-owned and operated. Excellent traditional German food with refreshing flavors and presentation. Lovely outdoor seating out back.


Interior view of dining room with dark wood panels and festive round candle light fixture at Bronwyn-on-Battenkill restaurant.
I was told the chef was on Bobby Flay and won for his schnitzel recipe

Up for Breakfast. Recommended to me by my Greeting Card Association Mentor, I had a fabulous breakfast. Great local vibe and truly delicious food.

A photo showing Kerstin Rao outside the restaurant Up for Breakfast.
I went full Scandi with lingonberry pain perdu and Elk sausage

Nong’s Kitchen. I’ve had dim sum in Chinatowns in Manhattan, Los Angeles, and San Francisco - this is right up there with the best of them. Friendly service and reasonable prices - highly recommend!


A food photo showing steamed rice in lotus leaf, fried sesame balls, and shrimp shumai in Asian steamer trays.
Shrimp shumai, fried sesame ball, and sticky rice in a lotus leaf

Marimeko Outlet Store. I’m a big fan of Scandinavian design, and Marimeko is legendary. This is the only Marimeko outlet in North America, and they were having a sale ON the sale merchandise. I scooped up a dress and have already gotten compliments on it!

Marimeko shop shelves showing bright red, black, and olive-colored patterns on mugs, plates, pillows, and scarves.

Thanks for reading my adventures at Hildene and Manchester, VT - I hope you can visit there soon!


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